There are many elements that make walking through the Altai Mountains in northwest Mongolia a unique adventure.
The remote and untamed wilderness of the Tavan Bogd National Park, the immersion over nine days in this pristine natural environment of wildflowers, wildlife and waterfalls.
Exposure to the nomadic lifestyles of modern day Kazakh and Tuvan herders - witnessing traditional cultures present in the region since the Palaeolithic age (that’s over 15,000 years).
The mountains, white-capped peaks, giants by our sides, always impressive, and then that first glimpse of the Five Sacred Peak -Tavan Bogd - one of which is Mongolia’s highest mountain, Khuten Peak at 4,200 mts.
This photo essay describes three important components that make this adventure magic: the location, the people and the challenge.
These three elements come together every year during Edgewalkers Mongolian Walking Adventure in the Tavan Bogd National Park (TBNP) in the heart of the Altai Mountain Range.
THE ALTAI MOUNTAINS
The Altai Mountains in Central Asia expand over 1600 kms across Kazakhstan, China, Russia and Mongolia. On the Mongolian side they extend 900 km from the northwest corner (where we walk) in Bayan-Ulgii Province to the southwest, in Khovd Province.
In the background the Altai Mountains welcome us into the Tavan Bogd National Park.
You wouldn’t know it but most of these eight gorgeous individuals had only just met a few days before this picture was taken.
They all like they’ve known each other forever.
They also look super excited.
Can you blame them?
They’ve just got their first view of the snowcapped peaks of the Altai Mountains - our home for the next 9 days.
The Tavan Bogd National Park makes up over 600,000 hectares spread over the northern-western tip of Mongolia - on the borders with China on the west and Russia on the north. We access it from Ulgii, an ethnically Kazakh town with a growing economy from tourism and trade with Kazakhstan and China.
Stepping up to the challenge is part and parcel of an expedition like this… EVERYONE excelled!
The terrain changes dramatically over the nine days.
The landscape varies dramatically throughout national park.
Where our walk commences, at the junction between Khoton and Khurgen Lakes, there are larch pines clustered along the western edge of the Khoton Lake and populating the distant slopes.
There are so many streams flowing from glaciers on the mountains - they are usually no more than knee deep and we cross most of them easily - they are, however, icy!
Some wildflowers are scattered near the streams. Edelweiss, forget-me-nots, the odd white poppy.
Deeper in the mountain, there are gorges, and fast-moving rivers before commencing the ascent over high passes.
There are huge boulders and one side of the mountain is visibly dry and rocky and the opposite side lush and green with more fir woodlands. The milky white river flowing rich with the sediment of the glaciers.
Nomads access their remote camps along a network of dirt tracks.
We love the wooden bridges that allow us to cross the wider and deeper rivers. Not the white colour of the water?
However, after a certain point, camels and horses are the only way to transport food and equipment. There are many nomads whose livelihood depends on commercially raising camels.
As the altitude rises we walk over rugged and dry mountain passes. The highest is 3200 metres, dark slate covers much of the pass. On the way up the mountains the display of wildflowers is extraordinary,
Fresh fruit is a real treat - and luxury on this expedition.
Borlotro - our gorgeous cook and her assistant cook busy in action.
Can you believe these vegan moms full of protein and veggies at 3,000 mts?
I don’t know how she did it but Borlotro (our expedition cook) served us fresh fruit and veggies every day of the hike, as well as some spectacular meals that would be challenging too cook in a well-equipped kitchen!
Camping takes on a whole new meaning when your views are 5 star in front ands a million stars above!
Up and up towards the highest pass 3, 200 mt.
Oh and this lake always takes our breath away.
NOMADIC LIFE
Kazakh and Tuvan nomads make their summer homes in the heart of the Altai Mountains where they fatten their animals on the grassy valleys of the Tavan Bogd National Park.
We are so lucky to be invited every year into the homes of local nomads - these sisters are making butter. Notice the large leather receptacle next to the wooden vat? That’s where they mix the mare’s milk to make Airag - the local alcohol with very high alcohol content.
This Tuvan father and daughter are part of a family camp that we see every year - the baby is a new addition to the family. Tuvan nomads originate from the southern Russian region of Siberia. IN the are near Khovsgol Lake there are the more better known Reindeer People who are of Tavan origin, but through the Altai Mountains nomadic Tunas also prevail.
Tuvan nomads bring their animals to pasture in the park every year.
cheese drying out in the sun and fresh air.
Tuvan women milking yaks
THE CHALLENGE
Whether it’s the physical challenge of walking 15 - 20 km daily, steep ascents and descents, the altitude of 2,500 plus Mts; or the mental and emotional challenge of being out of our comfort zones, the remoteness and wilderness, or the disconnection from the rest of the world. Or the discomfort of sleeping in tents, changeable weather and unfamiliar foods, there is no question that walking through the Altai Mountains int eh Tavan Bogd National Park is a challenge for most people who join this adventure.
While the ascent is steep - getting back down can be equally challenging.
Camping beside White River - aptly named - this river flows directly from the Potanin Glacier - Mongolia’s longest.
one of the longer and more challenging days from 2600 to 3, 100 mt - but what a view to walk towards!!
Those who attempt to climb to the 4,045 mt summit of Malchin Peak truly understand the physical challenge of walking on scree.
Walking through the Altai Mountains in the TAVAN BOGD National Park in Northwest Mongolia is not for the faint-hearted. It is for the adventurous hearted, the brave-hearted, the open-hearted and the humble-hearted. It is for those that are ready to push through their limitations and step outside of comfort and familiarity to experience the wild and pristine natural beauty of remote wilderness - to experience what not many people will experience in their lives.