2019 - The Highlights

With only a few days left of 2019 I have been reflecting and revisiting some of the most significant moments of the year for us at Edgewalkers.

Every year, since our first retreat in April 2016, has been a wonderful journey for me at Edgewalkers and this year’s contribution to that experience has been huge. I feel specially proud of what we managed to deliver in 2019 and I love that slowly & organically, at Edgewalkers we are delivering quality & powerful retreat products, as well as becoming one of WA’s more intimate & boutique walking tour companies.

Our reliable & consistent offerings have received excellent reviews and stand as a testament that when you follow your heart (and work your little butt off) you can really find yourself in the right place at the right time. I am also very aware that many kind, talented and generous people have been major contributors to the success that we are enjoying and they are worth celebrating - read about these special humans here.

So 2019 has been a HUGE year on every level, but there were some moments that have really stood out for me personally. Here they are:

1. New Year’s Day 2019

The Grand Canyon was covered in snow on January 1 2019

The Grand Canyon was covered in snow on January 1 2019

The very first day of 2019 remains a top highlight of the year for me. Not only witnessing the Grand Canyon covered by a magical layer of pristine snow, but doing so with my sister and niece, was a fantastic way to enter into 2019.

I was lucky to spend two months in Arizona with family I had not seen for years, while scoping out possible hike and retreat locations. Another lovely surprise while I was in the US was that Lisa, from Pennsylvania, - client/friend who walked in Mongolia with us in 2018 - jumped on a plane to Phoenix in early January, hired a car and picked me up for a few days hiking through the Superstition Wilderness and Sedona. It was a perfect way to start the year and a small but delicious taster of the rich and extensive hiking opportunities in the US.

2. The Queen of Sheba

The Queen of Sheba … Thelymitra variegata …

The Queen of Sheba … Thelymitra variegata …

I didn’t have to think long to come up with this top moment of 2019. It was such a great pleasure to finally see this most colourful and mysterious of our native sun orchids. The vibrant purple, red, orange, pink & yellow variations stand out against the burnt beige background of the drying bush. Each pattern on each tiny flower, unique.

I did not find the Queen of Sheba by myself. I had help from local orchid hunter and expert Terry Dunham at Tozer’s Campground on the west side of the Fitzgerald River National Park near Bremer Bay - it will be a moment that I will remember for a long time.

3. All the other wildflowers we saw for the first time…

Rose Coneflowers (Isopogon formosus) in the Fitzgerald River National Park - with Misako, Sept 2019.

Rose Coneflowers (Isopogon formosus) in the Fitzgerald River National Park - with Misako, Sept 2019.

Of course, the Queen of Sheba was not the only first sighting this year. There were lots of stunning moments over the season this year with lots of first sightings of flowers for me. Thank you to all the wonderful people that make this possible like the amazing people who came walking with us in the Fitzgerald Biosphere this year, including my dear friend Misako. It was so much fun.

3. Malchin Peak, Mongolia …. again

The truth is that the whole of this expedition, with a sensational group of women, and some wonderful warm local hosts, was a highlight - so I guess climbing Malchin Peak was a highlight within a highlight!

When we got to the top of this 4,045 metre mountain in the Tavan Bogd National Park last year (2018), it was a breathtaking experience and felt like a huge accomplishment for all three of us - Lisa (US), Lot (Netherlands) and I were all overcome with deep joy.

I half expected it to be less impressive this year (2019) when doing it for the second time. I was wrong. It was a magic experience and I enjoyed every bit of banter, cajoling, complaining, gasping, and laughter as we all made our way, slowly, up the slippery scree face.

When you climb a very steep mountain it doesn’t take that long before there is a magnificent view and this was the case with Malchin Peak, which offered brilliant views of the Potanin Glacier right from the start of the ascent. Once past half-way we could see all the way to the Russian and Chinese parts of the Altai mountain range. Positively grand.

Thank you to the exceptional humans who have shared this adventure so far - I am so grateful.

6. The Kamchatka Peninsula

The environment is rugged and wild, the scenery spectacular and the hiking a hearty and satisfying challenge.

I have been planning to go to the Kamchatka Peninsula for about four years and this year it finally happened - but it tool some doing!

First, I posted a call out on Facebook to see if anyone was interested in hiking through this region with me. There were a few interested people but it was Alex (pictured above), from Newcastle, NSW, who met me in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky with a huge smile and a heart full of wonderment and adventure!

Together we negotiated Russian language, wrong addresses and local transport to get everything we needed before starting our hike: there were the permits needed to walk through the Klyuchevskaya Nature Park; there was getting bear spray & gas canisters for cooking; there was working out which bus to which town at what time; there was finding accommodation when we got there.. but we did it!

Here is at short video of the adventure once we got to the Klyuchevskaya Nature Park - a UNESCO listed world heritage site.

5. Lake Baikal

Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Russia

Getting to Lake Baikal - the deepest freshwater lake in the world - was an adventure in itself. It took a 24 hour train ride from Ulaan Baatar (Mongolia) , a tram from outside the train station to the car rental place, directions on google maps and a 270 km drive out of Irkutsk in peak hour traffic 💪🏼😬to the cottage I’d rented on Lake Baikal... 😅deciphering Cyrillic letters, in the rain and the dark... on the right side of the road... loved every minute!!

After spending a couple of days walking around the lake, admiring wildflowers and being on my own, I spontaneously took the ferry to Olkhon Island - full of natural beauty & enshrined in shamanic mysticism, this place was a gem. There was wild camping right on the edges of the lake, wildflowers everywhere and despite quite a few tourists in the main part of the town, there were plenty of places for serenity and alone time.

7. Meeting Georgiana Molloy’s great great granddaughter…

You don’t know this, but it is looking like my play Wildflowers, about WA women and flowers, will be staged during the heritage festival early May 2020.

I started researching one of the characters in the play, early settler and of WA’s first botanist Georgiana Molloy, in 2012. Can you believe the thrilling surprise to find out, casually while sitting around over dinner after a hearty day on the Cape to Cape track, that one of our walkers, the dynamic Patricia (pictured above), is Georgiana’s great great grand daughter!

… a highlight!

Western Australian Wildflowers by their Noongar Names.

 
Pudjak…Banksia sessilis or parrot bush, abundant species in the southwest of Western Australia

Pudjak…Banksia sessilis or parrot bush, abundant species in the southwest of Western Australia

With 40% of the world’s indigenous languages at risk of disappearing, this year’s International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples (August 9) has a special focus on language. The UN calls on countries to ‘…recognise, protect and promote indigenous languages through legislation, policies and other strategies…’

In celebration of our unique and breathtaking flora, and acknowledgement of the Noongar land we inhabit in Australia’s southwest, here is a small collection of wildflowers, their Noongar names and their traditional uses.

CARA - Caladenia arenicola

Orchids (Djubak ) are much sought-after beauties and our southwest is gifted with a great diversity of orchids. What many people do not know is that these beautiful & delicate orchids used to form part of the Noongar spring diet. Their kidney shaped roots, distinguished by their maturity, can be eaten raw when young (chokern) or roasted when mature (naank). Likewise, the hollow, onion-like single stem that shoots up before the flower can be eaten raw and is supposedly sweet and gelatinous.

PUDJAK - Banksia sessilis

Commonly known as parrot bush as it attracts the endemic ring-necked parrots. This plant’s flower has traditionally been used for its sweet nectar and its wood to make message sticks allowing different Noongar tribes to communicate. The leaves are hard and their edges pointy and prickly. There is a lovely corridor of tall Pudjak bushes between Moses Rock North and the Moses Rock campground on the Cape to Cape.

BALGA - Xanthorrhoea preissii

Balga - so many uses for this magnificent iconic Australian plant.

Balga - so many uses for this magnificent iconic Australian plant.

The Balga - or grasstree - in a dominant feature in the Australian landscape. Noongar people have made used of this plant in many ways. For food, they used to dig down to the shoots at the bottom of the grass. Also, Its fronds could be used to cover shelters and its resin both as a tanning or binding agent.

KOORLA - Hardenbergia comptoniana

The stems from the prolific Native Wisteria plants were used to help build shelters and also as rope.

MINDALENY - Acacia Pulchella

Wattle had a lot of uses in Noongar tradition. The seeds of this and other species, like Acacia cyclops, were ground and baked into damper. The juice from the leaves could also be used to relieve eczema, repel insects and protect from sunburn. Also, the bark could be stripped from the wood and treated with fat from animals like kangaroo (yonga) or lizard (gnoomoon) and made pliable to tie things together.

KURULBRANG - Anigozanthos flavidus

The Red Kangaroo Paw, our state flower was a rich source of starchy calories for Noongar people. It is known for attracting birds like the Red Breasted Robin.

KARA - Burchardia congesta

These pretty Milkmaid flowers found along the Cape to Cape from September to November have a starchy, fleshy that could be eaten raw or baked over coals on a fire.

There are some excellent resources available if you are interested in Noongar plant names and uses. John Horsfall & Vivienne Hansen’s Noongar Bush Medicine: Medicinal Plants of the South-west of Western Australia and their latest Noongar Bush Tucker: Bush Food Plants and Fungi of the South-West of Western Australia are a delightful and comprehensive collection of many traditional culinary and medicinal uses for plants of Western Australia’s southwest.

I also looked at this site for some names https://www.perthnrm.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Traditonal-Ecological-Knowledge-By-Noongar-Names-Jan-2016.pdf