The Peaks of the Balkans is a 190 km circular mountain trail across Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.
Established in 2012 as part of a peace project, the trail is now a unique hiking experience that has united the post-war region through an immersive, wilderness hiking adventure through a section of the Dinaric Alps, also referred to as the ‘Accursed Mountains’. It crosses a number of national parks including the Prokletije National Park and the Valbona Valley National Park.
DAY 1 & 2 - Skhöder
View of Tuna and Drin Rivers from Rozafa Castle in Skhöder.
We transfer from Tirana to Skhöder where we we stay at the Hotel Tradita, a lo0cal household name for tradition, hospitality and delicious local food. We walk around its famous castle, the historical centre and enjoy the lively nightlife and music before we set off to the Theth.
Day 3 - Theth & Blue Eye
On the drive from Tirana to Theth the views are a great preview of what’s to come!
The ‘Blue Eye’ Waterfall - a popular watering hole near Theth where our walking adventure begins.
Depending on the traffic the drive from Tirana to Theth in a private car is about 2 hours. On the way, we’ll get panoramic glimpses of the mountains.
DAY 4 - Theth to Valbone - 18 km
The first day of walking follows a track from Theth to the valley of Valbone. This is the busiest section of the whole trail - many day walkers hike this section before catching a ferry back to Skhoder.
It starts in the beech forest above Theth and follows a mule track all the way up the edge of the mountain to the Valbone Valley.
The views of the rugged peaks are spectacular and the descent through the pine forest also a beautiful way to end the day.
walking from Theth to Valbone through the pine forest overlooking the Valbone Valley.
One of the many traditional wooden guest-houses.
This is the Albanian marker for the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.
Day 5 Valbone to Cerem
We make our way from Valbone to the more remote and traditional village of Cerem through a challenging route past the Zla Kolata Peak on the Preslopit Pass.
We are driven to the start of the trailhead where the steep ascent to the pass begins, there is a bit of a scramble up a rocky section an then through some forest and finally we arrive at the rugged, expansive pass with big views of the tall mountain peaks, including the tallest mountain Peak in Montenegro, Kla Kolata.
Almost at the pass - views of the peaks.
DAY 6 - Cerem to Doberdol
This is a stunning hike that connect two remote summer villages and as local guide Emir Cirikovic puts it’s
”… is a highlight of the Peaks of the Balkans for two reasons. First, once you gain elevation, you keep it. The hike is mostly flat with great views and meanders through enchanting old growth forests. Second, Doberdol is an absolute dream. It is the highest overnight stop on the trail and by far one of the most isolated.”
We love Doberdol and on the way we stop at an even smaller summer village where the local owner makes the most delicious cakes and coffee.
On the way to Doberdol.
Chalets at Leonard Guest-House - one of the oldest in Doberdol.
DAY 7 - Gjeravica Peak
You can choose to hang around Doberdol and have a rest day - or attempt to hike to the summit of Gjeravica Peak - the tallest peak in Kosovo.
This day has 2 steep ascents. The first is from Doberdol to the ridge where we cross over towards Kosovo. The second is to the summit - it’s a steep, rocky, craggy summit. On the way there are glacial lakes and views as far as the eye can see of this mountainous region.
DAY 8 - Doberdol to Milishevc
Lojza Guest-house - remote and serene, deep in the mountain forest.
Doberdol to Milishevc starts with a steep hike up past Tromeda Peak where the three countries’ borders meet. The views are expansive the whole way and the lush forests and frequent streams make this another day of perfect mountain hiking.
What a view - Balbino Polje seen on the walk down.
DAY 9 Milishevc to Balbino Polje
This is the shortest section on the trail and the easiest as there is very little to ascend - the descent into Balbino Polje is gorgeous. Lots of wildflowers and birds on this section.
Hrid Lake - at 2,000 metres one of the highest on the trail - beautiful any time of day.
DAY 10 - Balbino Polje to Plav
The highlight of this section - other than the great view of Plav and the lake when we descend into the town, is the beautiful sight of Hrid Lake. Hrid Lake is a glacial lake sitting at 2,000 m surrounded by dense pine forest and a couple of Montenegro’s tallest peaks.
Swimming in the lake is said to bring good luck in all areas of life, specially love and health. It’s chilly but well worth the dip.
DAY 11 - Plav to Vusanje via Grevaje Valley
Views of the peaks at the Talijanka Loop in the Grevaje Valley!
Only 14 km in total but this circular Talijanka Loop in the Grevaje Valley between Plav and Vusanje is ABSOLUTELY breathtaking.
There’s a bit of hike up to the loop through dense and old beech forest that takes you up into the valley from where we can access the trails to walk up to every peak in the Loop.
There is nowhere without a mind-blowing view - made lunch there very special.
The view from the guest house in Vusanje is stunning too - one of the best guest houses on the trail!
DAY 12 - Vusanje to Theth
This might be (might) be our favourite section. Maybe because it’s just soooooo expansive and the view so large and the rugged peaks stand above us the whole way to the final descent into Theth.
The historical element provided by the bunkers that are spotted about in this area also add to the magnitude and importance of this region.
Deep in the valley making our way back to Theth from Vusanje.
Stone buildings typical of Theth.
DAY 13 & 14 - Theth to Skhöder to Tirana
Back at the Tradita Hotel in Skhöder we celebrate together before we head off in our different directions. You will be dropped off at the airport in Tirana on the last day.
