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Walking the edge

Short written and image essays on walking, nature and creativity.

With a special focus on women, wildflowers and biodiversity, the writing informs and reminds the reader of the many ways nature shapes cultures, sustains wellness and inspires creativity.

Featuring Western Australia's southwest, Mongolia and other Edgewalkers destinations.

Dr Erika Jacobson -


Instagram @edgewalkers_

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Walking through the Boranup Forest - southwest Western Australia

4 Ways Nature Helps Us Restore Our Creativity

November 09, 2025

There is a long list of benefits that come from spending time in nature.

You know it.
I know it.
We all know it.

There’s plenty of quantifiable scientific evidence demonstrating these benefits including: increased longevity, physical health, positive thoughts and reduced stress.

It makes sense that nature is also place where our creativity thrives and our capacity to focus and problem solve is restored.

According to Attention Restoration Theory, this is exactly what happens.

When we spend time concentrating, focusing on specific problems or trying to get results out of our thinking, our brains grow fatigued.

When we are mentally fatigued our cognitive ability to ideate, imagine, and think laterally, discern, choose, plan, is reduced.

This is especially true during the phase of creativity we label the incubation period.

When we are waiting for ideas to pop into the ‘aha’ realm and become suitable ideas.

In nature, or while looking at nature – even photos it seems – our attention is free to wander without the brain having to make too much effort.

We are biophilic beings.

We love nature and all things nature. That’s one reason most of us feel GOOD in nature.

But there are four elements that are present in nature, especially in wilderness and more unfamiliar natural settings that contribute to this restorative potential:

1.     Fascination – this is apparently, the most important factor. You would have experienced it.

It’s the way our brain’s focus naturally goes towards natural features that catch our attention – waterfalls, streams, wildflowers, clouds, sunsets, mountains peaks, the ocean.  
The lack of effort needed to pay attention in nature; the way our brains take it all in effortlessly, helps our brain to relax and restore its capacity to focus and problem solve.

If you listen to Radio National in Australia there was an interview today (9 Nov 25) with Professor Hannes Leroy – director of the Erasmus Centre for Leadership in Rotterdam - who talks about the ‘lost art of daydreaming’.

He studies the way the mind wanders and how that has positive impacts on creativity and problem solving.

It seems when the mind is let free to wander it can filter through the ‘unresolved’ incidents, ideas and ‘stuff’ we carry around with us.

Being in nature creates opportunities for the mind to wander freely and, if it does it long enough, it can start to find solutions, make connections and associations that may lead to complex problems being solved.

Look at these – would they capture your attention?
Would your attention wander from wildflower to wildflower feeling the effect of the aesthetic beauty?
Would they enable a lightening of the mental load carried on whatever you might have been working on until that moment?

Melaleuca sp
Melaleuca suberosa
Hakea Cuculatta
Boronia
Stylidium sp
Kunzea sp

2.     Being Away – being away from the habitual stressors, experiencing unfamiliar surroundings and different stimuli can be restorative.

We get used to a certain daily experience and when we change this, especially in nature, it can help our brain relax and reset.
We don’t spend enough time in nature, so most natural settings are unfamiliar to us.
Even looking at a pot plant, a nature video, or an image of a lake and sunset on a wall can have some effect.

Professor Leroy talked about the art of retreating.

Taking ourselves away from the centre of activity, taking a step back to reassess, in effect, taking our eyes off the ball, not paying attention to anything in particular, but letting the mind be distracted by everything in general – so it can be unfettered to reassess, reconsider, reset and restore.

Not the usual lunch spot - I wander where her thoughts are going?

3.     Extent – the scope or range of the experience affects the impact – there is going to be more awe and immersion if the experience in a multi-day walk through remote wilderness full of visual vastness and richness, or if it is a few hours in a nearby park where there are lots of trees and birds but you can still hear the traffic.
Both are useful and beneficial; both are restorative, but there is a huge reset and restorative impact of prolonged time immersed in nature where you start to feel at one with the environment.

Where there is no end in sight to the freedom to wander.

Not a single brain was left unaffected by the spectacle of this view.

4.     Compatibility – each individual has an affinity and motivation to be in nature and be impacted by it.

how much does the person want to be exposed to nature?
How much motivation do they intrinsically have to appreciate the time away?

As biophilic beings we are drawn to the natural fascinations we encounter in nature.

We ‘know’ it feels good to walk through a forest.
We ‘know’ it clears our head to go for a beach walk.
We ‘know’ taking time out is important to get perspective.

However, increasingly research is showing us that it’s this combination of 4 factors - often present when we take ourselves to pristine and natural environments - that lead to “involuntary” or “indirect attention” allowing our brains and their creative and problem solving functions, among others, to be restored.

Fan, J., B. D. McCandliss, T. Sommer, A. Raz, and M. I. Posner. 2002. Testing the efficiency and independence of attentional networks. Journal of Cognitive Neuroscience14:340–47. doi:10.1162/089892902317361886.

Kaplan, S. 1995. The restorative benefits of nature: Toward an integrative framework. Journal of Environmental Psychology 15:169–82. doi:10.1016/0272-4944(95)90001-2.

Leroy, H., Rofcanin, Y., Ogbonnaya, C., Benischke, M. H., & Fainshmidt, S. (2025). The Devil is in the Details: Zooming out in Leadership Research. Journal of Management Studies. Advance online publication. https://doi.org/10.1111/joms.70013

Staats, H. 2012. Restorative environments. In The Oxford handbook of environmental and conservation psychology, ed. S. Clayton, 445–58. New York, NY: Oxford University Press.Natural environments have been consistently found to be conducive to creative performance.

On the way to summit Gjeravica Peak, in Kosovo, near the border with Albania.

The Peaks of the Balkans - a day by day photo journey

October 18, 2025

The Peaks of the Balkans is a 190 km circular mountain trail across Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.

Established in 2012 as part of a peace project, the trail is now a unique hiking experience that has united the post-war region through an immersive, wilderness hiking adventure through a section of the Dinaric Alps, also referred to as the ‘Accursed Mountains’. It crosses a number of national parks including the Prokletije National Park and the Valbona Valley National Park.

DAY 1 & 2 - Skhöder

View of Tuna and Drin Rivers from Rozafa Castle in Skhöder.

We transfer from Tirana to Skhöder where we we stay at the Hotel Tradita, a lo0cal household name for tradition, hospitality and delicious local food. We walk around its famous castle, the historical centre and enjoy the lively nightlife and music before we set off to the Theth.

Day 3 - Theth & Blue Eye

On the drive from Tirana to Theth the views are a great preview of what’s to come!

The ‘Blue Eye’ Waterfall - a popular watering hole near Theth where our walking adventure begins.

Depending on the traffic the drive from Tirana to Theth in a private car is about 2 hours. On the way, we’ll get panoramic glimpses of the mountains.

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DAY 4 - Theth to Valbone - 18 km

The first day of walking follows a track from Theth to the valley of Valbone. This is the busiest section of the whole trail - many day walkers hike this section before catching a ferry back to Skhoder.
It starts in the beech forest above Theth and follows a mule track all the way up the edge of the mountain to the Valbone Valley.
The views of the rugged peaks are spectacular and the descent through the pine forest also a beautiful way to end the day.

walking from Theth to Valbone through the pine forest overlooking the Valbone Valley.

One of the many traditional wooden guest-houses.

This is the Albanian marker for the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.

Day 5 Valbone to Cerem

We make our way from Valbone to the more remote and traditional village of Cerem through a challenging route past the Zla Kolata Peak on the Preslopit Pass.

We are driven to the start of the trailhead where the steep ascent to the pass begins, there is a bit of a scramble up a rocky section an then through some forest and finally we arrive at the rugged, expansive pass with big views of the tall mountain peaks, including the tallest mountain Peak in Montenegro, Kla Kolata.

Almost at the pass - views of the peaks.

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DAY 6 - Cerem to Doberdol

This is a stunning hike that connect two remote summer villages and as local guide Emir Cirikovic puts it’s
”… is a highlight of the Peaks of the Balkans for two reasons. First, once you gain elevation, you keep it. The hike is mostly flat with great views and meanders through enchanting old growth forests. Second, Doberdol is an absolute dream. It is the highest overnight stop on the trail and by far one of the most isolated.”
We love Doberdol and on the way we stop at an even smaller summer village where the local owner makes the most delicious cakes and coffee.

On the way to Doberdol.

Chalets at Leonard Guest-House - one of the oldest in Doberdol.

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DAY 7 - Gjeravica Peak

You can choose to hang around Doberdol and have a rest day - or attempt to hike to the summit of Gjeravica Peak - the tallest peak in Kosovo.
This day has 2 steep ascents. The first is from Doberdol to the ridge where we cross over towards Kosovo. The second is to the summit - it’s a steep, rocky, craggy summit. On the way there are glacial lakes and views as far as the eye can see of this mountainous region.

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DAY 8 - Doberdol to Milishevc

Lojza Guest-house - remote and serene, deep in the mountain forest.

Doberdol to Milishevc starts with a steep hike up past Tromeda Peak where the three countries’ borders meet. The views are expansive the whole way and the lush forests and frequent streams make this another day of perfect mountain hiking.

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What a view - Balbino Polje seen on the walk down.

DAY 9 Milishevc to Balbino Polje

This is the shortest section on the trail and the easiest as there is very little to ascend - the descent into Balbino Polje is gorgeous. Lots of wildflowers and birds on this section.

Hrid Lake - at 2,000 metres one of the highest on the trail - beautiful any time of day.

DAY 10 - Balbino Polje to Plav

The highlight of this section - other than the great view of Plav and the lake when we descend into the town, is the beautiful sight of Hrid Lake. Hrid Lake is a glacial lake sitting at 2,000 m surrounded by dense pine forest and a couple of Montenegro’s tallest peaks.

Swimming in the lake is said to bring good luck in all areas of life, specially love and health. It’s chilly but well worth the dip.

The Peaks of the Balkans
Hrid Lake - Montenegro
The Peaks of the Balkans Trail
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DAY 11 - Plav to Vusanje via Grevaje Valley

Views of the peaks at the Talijanka Loop in the Grevaje Valley!

Only 14 km in total but this circular Talijanka Loop in the Grevaje Valley between Plav and Vusanje is ABSOLUTELY breathtaking.

There’s a bit of hike up to the loop through dense and old beech forest that takes you up into the valley from where we can access the trails to walk up to every peak in the Loop.

There is nowhere without a mind-blowing view - made lunch there very special.
The view from the guest house in Vusanje is stunning too - one of the best guest houses on the trail!

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DAY 12 - Vusanje to Theth

This might be (might) be our favourite section. Maybe because it’s just soooooo expansive and the view so large and the rugged peaks stand above us the whole way to the final descent into Theth.
The historical element provided by the bunkers that are spotted about in this area also add to the magnitude and importance of this region.

Deep in the valley making our way back to Theth from Vusanje.

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Stone buildings typical of Theth.

DAY 13 & 14 - Theth to Skhöder to Tirana

Back at the Tradita Hotel in Skhöder we celebrate together before we head off in our different directions. You will be dropped off at the airport in Tirana on the last day.

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Find out more here!

3 Western Australian Artists - Women Wild About Wildflowers

August 08, 2025

Western Australia is known as The Wildflower State.

From August to November, people from all over the country - and the world - travel to our remote corner of Australia,  to experience the vibrant and colourful displays of wildflowers that transform our wild and rugged landscapes every year. 

The southwest corner of Australia, known as the Southwest Botanical Province, is one of the most florally biodiverse regions in the world. 

These three West Australian artists have all found in native blooms a source of beauty, resilience, adaptation, survival and inspiration.

It is safe to say, all biases noted, that Western Australia has some of the most diverse and inspiring flora on the planet.

From the carpets of yellow Pom Pom Everlastings (Cephalipterum drumondii) and Yellow-seeded Goodenia (Goodenia xanthosperma) that cover kilometres of the ground north of Perth; to the singularly unique WA orchids like the Queen of Sheba or the endemic variety of Hakeas, Banksias, Melaleucas found through the Kwongan landscapes, the wildflowers of WA have been these artists true muses.

Helen Ansell

Helen Ansell - in action painting Desert Blooms inspired by the Wreath Flower - Lechenaultia macrantha.

In Mullewa, about 500 km north and slightly east of Perth, Helen Ansell has found a home whose landscape and native wildflowers inspire her every day.

But it wasn’t always like that. Helen found her love for the native WA species while living overseas. Her vibrant art has evolved alongside her appreciation for the wildflowers that thrive around her.

And that’s no surprise - the wildflowers in that region of WA are jaw-droopingly beautiful.

You will find clusters of delicate spider orchids under the alarming red of Bird Beak Hakeas (Hakea orthorrhyncha) or delicate but abundant hues of yellow, purple and salmon coloured eremophila.

Spider Orchids - Caledenia sp.

Bird Beak Hakea - Hakea orthorrhyncha

But no wildflower draws more people to Mullewa, and more specifically to the nearby settlement of Pindar, than the mysterious Wreath Flower - Lechenaultia macrantha (below centre).

Lechenaultia macrantha - Wreath Flower - Pindar, WA

Lechenaultia macrantha - Wreath Flower - Pindar, WA

Lori Pensini

Recently awarded the Collie Art Prize - one of Australia’s most lucrative regional art prizes -  Lori Pensini has been inspired by the raw beauty and huge expanse of WA’s landscapes since she was a child.

Lori Pensini is a child of the Wheatbelt, she grew up near Narrogin and also spent time living in the spectacular Pilbara region of the state.

Lori refers to her art as an exploration of the ‘confluence of self and landscape’. 

Some of her most dramatic paintings are botanical portraits that stand out for their distinct bold and abstract compositions of people, wildflowers, and landscapes as one. 

Like this one:

Hakea - Hakea cucullata - by Lori Pensini

Hakea cuculatta - Stirling Range National Park.

Lori Pensini, March 2024.

Inspired by this wildflower the Hakea cuculatta,  found in abundance through the Stirling Range National Park.

On a visit to her studio in early 2023, Lori and I talked openly about the disconnection that exists between human existence and nature, and how her art redirects our gaze to images of humans as part of nature, belnding together and being the product of the natural environment. 

“ …​My art practice is an exploration of myself, my identity and placement within my family’s multifaceted history. It is illustrated directly from lived experiences on country and my responses to, and relationship with our landscape. “

Lori’s website reads:
“The botanical elements … link key positive personality traits of people with ecological characteristics of botanicals to create a distinctive 'language of flowers'... create a narrative around our cultural identity and role within our natural world.”

Today, Lori lives with her husband in Boyaup Brook, in WA’s southwest, where she works from her spacious studio. Her and her husband are involved in regenerative agriculture and adhere to principles that respect the delicate balance of human activity and agriculture.

Look out for times of the year when Lori opens up her studio, it is worth the visit.

Jude Taylor

Summer Scented Wattle - Acacia rostellifera by Jude Taylor in Jurien Bay - north of Perth

Jude grew up in North Perth and remembers a time when there were fields and horses around her. Her love for for landscapes and wildflowers was inspired by these natural surrounding and regular trips out to country.

“As a young girl growing up in WA, wildflower season was always a great joy.

Her colourful and bold linocut artwork and prints reflect how they have inspired her.

“Western Australian women can relate to them. The flowers and the female experience have a lot in common.” she says.
”Having to survive surrounded by the rather harsh (male) environment and its a hard land - having to survive and managing to hold on to the feminine quality - both dealing with a similar situation and still supporting and trying to bring great joy to every one.”

”Wildflowers are a great asset to WA - their abundance, the quality and quantity, and they beauty.”

Jude Taylor prints - bold and vibrant.

Visit her studio in the Swan Valley for a display of her beautiful linocuts.

Jude’s studio is a creative landmark in the Swan Valley and she is a regular contributor artist at the annual Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show. Look for her there from 8 - 20 September 2025.

Annapurna Basecamp - with my hobbit walking stick!

Reflections on My Annapurna Hiking Experience - ultralight or ultra ill-equipped?

February 16, 2025

“Hey guy with hydration pack, 2 hiking sticks & North Face vest; my 5 yr old walked the same trail in Crocs carrying a naked Barbie. Relax.”
Jack Boot @IamJackBoot X 2017

My first multi-day hike was in Nepal.
It was very relaxed.

It was February.
On the spur of the moment, I decided to hike the Annapurna Trail.
I got minibuses, train, rickshaw and coach from Darjeeling to Kathmandu.

After getting a permit, I bought a map, a knock-off Mountain Hardware puffer jacket, a headtorch, and a small roll of duct tape.

In Pokhara I rented a sleeping bag.

In the taxi to the trailhead, the driver was chatty.
Heavy bag?
Not very, about 7 kilos.

You have guide?
No guide.

You have porter?
No porter.

You have raincoat?
No raincoat.

The driver smiled at me over the rear-view mirror.
He pulled up in front of a shop, got out and came back with two jumbo size black plastic bin liners.
If it rains, you cut hole. Put head here.
Thank you.
I stuffed them into my pack politely.

At the start of the trail, I bought a wooden walking stick for fifty cents.

In knee-length designer yoga pants, shiny white Asics, and extra absorbent cotton shirt; with the sleeping bag dangling under the China-made, no-name daypack, I set off to Annapurna basecamp.

Ultralight and basic, wooden staff in hand, relaxed and happy, like a hobbit.

I huffed and sweated up the rocky paths, dirt tracks and stone steps, happy with my choice to travel as light as possible.

When I hiked past people decked in Gore-tex, moisture-wicking technology and carbon fibre walking poles, I smiled to myself said Namaste and strode ahead.

The Nepali porters didn’t have poles.
Few had boots.
They floated up and down the mountains in flip flops or plimsolls.
Heavy packs, double their height balancing between their shoulder blades.

No guide
No porter

Spontaneous.
Hardcore.
Relaxed.

The Annapurna Circuit is one of the most popular hiking destinations in the world.
The trail is clearly marked and well worn.

Along the way guest houses accommodate hikers, serve food, coffee, chai and have drinking water.
Some of them even have hot water for a shower.
In my mind it was a perfect trail to walk lightweight.

I knew it wasn’t easy.

Basecamp is over 4,130 metres. Pokhara is at 800 metres.
It’s over 3000 metres up.
It’s THE Himalayas – they’re the tallest, steepest, most changeable, and dangerous.

I knew that.

Annapurna Circuit Erika 2015
Kathmandu and rainbow
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The stick

I knew the stick would come in handy.
At first, it was a nuisance.
Unaccustomed to using one, it bumped into rocks and got caught in bushes.
But then, when parts of the trail became slushy; when the icy, wet stone became slippery, when it was so foggy I couldn’t tell how close I was to the edge of the pass,
then I quickly learnt how to use the stick.

It was while tottering down one icy path that I met a group of friendly Nepali guides.

With the stick in my right hand, wedged between two small boulders; my right knee bent at a right angle while I tentatively moved my left foot further in front of me, down the path.
The stick shifted slightly.
I shrieked, wobbled, found my balance, and sat on the frozen ground.
I slid on my bum down the short section using the stick like it was an oar slowing down a canoe.

The socks

The local guides approached.

Namaste, they were all smiles.
Namaste! I had stood up by now.

You have guide?
No guide.

You have porter?
No porter.

You have crampons?
What?

They pointed to their boots.
He said something funny in Nepali to the other guys because they laughed.

Ok, you have extra socks?
I was confused but nodded.

Yes, why?
You put socks over your shoes.
You don’t slide – like crampons.
With their big smiles, they left.

I did as was advised.
Counterintuitively, I stretched some socks as far over my shoes as possible.

I stood up.
Well, what do you know?
Instant grip.

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No guide
No porter

I made it to basecamp!
I was very, very pleased with myself.

The bin liner

Even the few drops of rain that started spitting down could not dampen my joy.
When the rain turned torrential, I shrugged and slid into one of the bin liners.
Then the wind picked up; the rain turned to snow, then sleet, then back to rain.
It got cold.
I put my celebration on hold and got serious about getting down safely.

That was the hardest day of the 9-day walk.
Each step felt precarious.
The black plastic flapped against my wet knees and slipped over my eyes.
The rain running off the poncho was going straight into my shoes.
It felt like my feet were under a tap.
Icy gusts of wind threw me off balance.
Despite the socks and the stick I slipped and fell several times.
The ponchos were in tatters.
Later I found out I’d just missed an avalanche that almost killed some Chinese hikers.

In the end I returned to Pokhara in one piece.
A run of idyllic walking days followed the downpour, and I went back to a state of mild euphoria.
In awe of the colossal mountains.
In awe of myself.

A stunning view of one of the Machhapuchhre Peaks from the Annapurna Circuit.

I was also very, very grateful.
I knew I hadn’t climbed Everest, and that I wasn’t wearing a pair of Crocs or holding a naked Barbie, but I wasn’t optimally prepared.
I’d bruised my whole body, had cuts on my legs and arms.
I’d destroyed all but one pair of socks.
My Asics were brown.

Benjamin Franklin might have tutted and disapprovingly said:
“Failing to prepare is preparing to fail”
He might’ve been right.

Ultralight or Ultra Ill-Equipped?
Spontaneous or reckless?
Hardcore or foolish?


Here’s what I would bring if I were to do this hike again:
- Wet weather gear - jacket/pants/pack cover
- Hiking boots/trail runners
- First Aid Kit
- Personal Location Beacon (PLB) / Garmin GPS - Emergency device|
- Crampons
- Walking Poles (2 of them)
- Quick-dry (wool/Smart wool) clothing
- Spare gloves

What kind of hiker are you?

Have you ever felt too relaxed on the trail?
Have you ever over-prepared?

READ Why adventuring out of our comfort zone helps us reach our highest potential

Nuytsia floribunda - Western Australian Christmas Tree

Wildflowers of Western Australia - Masters of Survival

December 16, 2024
 

The southwest of Western Australia has been called ‘one biodiversity hotspot to rule them all…’.

It is home to over 8,000 plant species, most of them endemic.

It is by far the most biodiverse region in Australia and one of the most diverse in the world. (see figure below).

Plant biodiversity Austrealia - in Brundett 2021

Evolving over millions of years these species have adapted to survive the extreme and hostile conditions and constraints to survival.  

Along with increasingly frequent and devastating fires, plants in the southwest also face extreme heat and drought; soils with next to no nutrients, an abundance of plant-eating animals, and a lack of pollinators.

None is more spectacular, and relevant for this time of the year than the Nuytsia floribunda, aka WA Christmas Tree.

WA Christmas Tree - Hopetoun, January 2021 flowering after fire.

Most people in Western Australia know that the appearance of the dazzling orange blooms points to the start of the warm weather and with that, fire season.

Fire is one of the main constraints to survival facing all southwest species.

Moodjar, as this parasitic mistletoe tree is known in Noongar language, is so distinct there is only one species.

Dating back 45 million years it has developed some unique traits to survive fire and other constraints.

Here are some:

2. Uses fire to sprout new growth from buds held deep inside branches and roots.

2.   Some of these underground shoots can spread 100 metres around the parent tree and develop small, shallow roots that eventually develop the mechanisms (known as haustoria) that help it dig its way into the host roots

3.   The Nuytsia haustoria are the ring-shaped structures that surround the roots of the host plant and cut into it, to suck water or other nutrients.

4. Its fruits are dispersed by the wind using the papery and three-winged shape. The papery surface of the fruit helps it absorb water and germinate the seed.

5.  Seedlings can survive 3 to 4 years without a host if the soil has enough nutrients.

Three-winged fruit dispersed by wind can be scattered up to 50 metres away from tree.

Nuytsia floribunda haustoriogens - these ring shaped mechanisms surround the host root and cut into it to access nutrients and water.

In addition to having some unique features to survive fire and other constraints, the Moodjar is also of great spiritual importance to Noongar people, especially the Wardandi and Bibbulun people of southwest WA.

The dazzling flowers of the tree are believed to represent the spirits of people who have passed and are on their way to Kurannup or the home of the dead.

For many Noongar people it is disrespectful to stand in its shade or to collect its roots or sap.

‘No living Bibbulmun ever sheltered or rested beneath the shade of the tree of souls; no flower or bud or leaf of the tree was ever touched by child or adult; no game that took shelter beneath it was ever disturbed.’ (Bates 1938 in Bridge 1992: 153)

It is also believed that a cluster of Nuytsia has been used as a ceremonial space for women to conduct ‘women’s business’.

Like many of the diverse plant life of Western Australia, this spectacular tree represents the heating up of the weather, traditional culture and displays extraordinary features that enable its survival in our unique and demanding conditions.


Brundrett, Mark C., 2021, One biodiversity hotspot to rule them all: southwestern Australia – an extraordinary evolutionary centre for plant functional and taxonomic diversity, Journal of the Royal Society of Western Australia, 104, 91 - 122.  

Groom, Philip K. & Lamont, Byron B2015, Plant life of Southwestern Australia, adaptations for survival. De Gruyter Open, Berlin.

https://www.broadsheet.com.au/national/food-and-drink/article/just-because-its-there-doesnt-mean-you-have-right-use-it-why-moodjar-sacred-tree-nyoongar-people-and-should-never-have-been-used-make-gin

 
 
 
 

Progress in the travel and tourism industry - a West Australian perspective

June 27, 2024

If we identify as an ‘ecotourism’ business, nature and its biodiversity are integral to our business model. Our product IS the environment.

Without healthy, thriving, biodiverse ecosystems, there’d be NO future for nature-based tourism. Without nature-based tourism, it’s safe to say, WA’s tourism industry would be radically diminished. 

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Eucalyptus lehmanni yellow flower

Eucalyptus lehmannii - Fitzgerald River National Park, near Bremer Bay, Western Australia

Wildflowers of Western Australia - the shape of flowers PT 1

January 08, 2024

This is a Eucalyptus lehmannii subsp. Lehmannii.
Also called a Bushy Yate.
They’re endemic to the southwest of Western Australia. 

I think it’s one of the most joyous of flowering trees.

This one was photographed in the Fitzgerald River National Park, near Bremer Bay

When it’s in flower it looks like there are hundreds of suns exploding inside its canopy. 

Each one of those globes is a cluster of flowers bonded together.
They (botanists) call the flowers and how they’re arranged, the plant’s inflorescence - that’s my favourite new word. 

Along with all the other plant species found in the highly diverse southwest region - 8000 or more - Eucalyptus have evolved and ‘innovated’ - the features necessary to survive the intense conditions of the region.

This evolution began over 100 million years ago.


Angiosperms and the revolution

All flowering plants - AKA angiosperms - appeared at least 100 millions years ago possessing a distinct and innovative feature.

A flower. 

This meant they could do two things:

  1. Be pollinated by other organisms 

  2. Store their seed inside a fruit.

This was a reproductive system double whammy. 

They also produced natural insecticides and maximised photosynthesis with 10x more veins in their leaves.

Armed with these features, and helped along by the extinction of dinosaurs, flowering plants continued to diversify. 

A major shift came when they engaged insects, birds and small mammals to help them pollinate and distribute seeds.

This drove the biodiversity of those and 100,000s of other organisms too.

They are the foundation on which our civilisations are built: our food, our materials, our medicine. 

It took them 50 million years - not that long in evolutionary terms - to colonise almost every land ecosystem on the planet.

They (paleobotanists) call it the Angiosperm Terrestrial Revolution.

Today, 90 percent of all plants on the planet are angiosperms. 

Most of the major families of WA’s southwest appeared during this period.

Ravensthorpe Range - Eucalyptus epicentre in WA

Ravensthorpe Range - Eucalyptus epicentre in WA

Plants of the southwest and their prolific biodiversity

The environment into which plants appeared in WA’s southwest posed a lot of challenges. 

  1. Poor soils - hardly any nutrients, depleted of Phosphorus

  2. Seasonal drought and lack of water

  3.  Seasonal heat - high temperatures 

  4. Fire - with the environment becoming increasingly flammable increasing over time

  5. No useful organisms to pollinate or spread seeds

  6. Plenty of plant eating creatures

It was an extreme Darwinian survival of the fittest scenario. 

Adaptation or die!
Many perished.

But the ones that made it, thrived.

The ones that made it diversified, and proliferated.

View fullsize Eucalyptus preissiana
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Eucalyptus - Myrtaceae

Eucalyptus made it!

Thank goodness. They are the quintessential Australian plant. 
There are 900 species of Eucalyptus - apart from a hand ful of species in Indonesia, New Guinea and one in the Philippines, they’re native to Australia.

147 are found in the southwest of WA, about 60 of them are endemic.

How did they do it?

About 62 million years ago, when they first appeared, Eucalyptus had distinct features that enabled their survival

  1. Against fire

  • the ability to sprout a fresh shoot from branches or trunk 

  • The ability to resprout fresh shoots from a lignotuber (a woody structure containing nutrients to help feed new growth)

  1. Against poor soils 

  • relationship with fungi where a mycorrhyza is formed allowing the roots of the tree to reach further away and access water and nutrients

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Above is Eucalyptus proxima - with colour variations of its flowers.

It could also be a Eucalyptus cernua. They’re very similar.

  • Both are both found exclusively around Ravensthorpe, northeast of the Fitzgerald River National Park. They share the same downturn in the flower stalk and the fruits and leaves are almost the same.

  • The big difference:  one is a mallee (many branches coming out of a root in the ground) and the other is a mallet (one trunk).

    But these are both Eucalyptus proxima - because the cernua is very tall - and I took the photo of a mallee not so tall that I couldn’t get to the flower!

    How beautiful are the bud caps?

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Banksias - Proteaceae

There are about 1400 species of Banksia around the world and Australia.
800 of them are found in the southwest and almost all of them are endemic!

How did they do it?

  • Clustered roots that allowed them to optimise the access to nutrients

  • They have leaves that are hard and thick-  to survive the heat (schleromorphic)

  • They have seeds that are contained inside woody fruit that have to be heated by fire to be released.

  • Seeds are dispersed by ants and emus

  • There is often a delay between flowering and seed dispersal - called seretony

View fullsize Hakea ferruginea
View fullsize Hakea lissocarpha Honeybush - Stirling Range NP
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View fullsize Hakea nitida - Bremer Bay

Hakea - Proteaceae

18 million years ago, they appeared in the southwest. 

There are 150 different species of Hakea, 100 in southwest WA.

How did they do it?

  • clustered their roots to optimise access to nutrients.

  • evolved into being insect-pollinated and then bird-pollinated - maybe helped along by black cockatoos.

  • their highly nutritious seed is inside a hard woody fruit that is made of resin and melts during fires to release the seed.

    Sometimes these fruit are large and sometimes they are scarce and difficult to find.

  • They have resprouting features (like Eucalyptus) near the roots that enable them to survive fires

  • Leaves shapes vary - some have thick and hard leaves to tolerate heat (sclerophyll) and some are spiny to deter insects or birds from eating the flower

    Look at the Royal Hakea below (Hakea Victoria).
    Endemic to the Fitzgerald River National Park - it dominates parts of the landscapes.

Hakea Victoria in flower - Fitzgerald River National Park - East Mt Barren in the background

Hakea victoria - Royal Hakea - Fitzgerald River National Park

References:

Benton, M. J., Wilf, P. & Sauquet, H. 2021. The Angiosperm Terrestrial Revolution and the origins of modern biodiversity, New Phytologist, 233: 2017–2035

Brundett, M. 2021. One biodiversity hotspot to rule them all: southwestern Australia—an extraordinary evolutionary centre for plant functional and taxonomic diversity, Journal of the Royal Society of Western Australia, 104, 91 - 122.

French M. & Nicolle, D. 2019, Eucalypts of Western Australia The South-west Coast and Ranges

Groom, P. & Lamont, B. 2015. Plant Life of Southwestern Australia. Adaptations for Survival

Lamont. B.B & Pausas J.G. (nd) Ecology and biogeography in 3D: The case of the Australian Proteaceae

https://doi.org/10.1111/jbi.13348

Traveller or Tourist? Happy World Tourism Day All the Same

September 27, 2023 in Biodiversity, Mongolia, Wildflowers

I’m a traveller, not a tourist!’

How many times have you said that?
I admit, I’ve said it a few times myself.

What we’re really saying is:
Don’t put me in the same category!
Can’t you see that I’m clearly not in a packaged tour?
Haven’t you noticed the size of my backpack?
Can’t you see I’m wearing a Sari? 😛

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The Kennedy Range National Park

Celebrating 6 Western Australian Trails on International Trails Day

June 03, 2023

A couple of years ago while hiking to the top of Burringurrah/Mt Augustus - a giant monocline in remote Wadjari country in Western Australia, I overheard a couple of hikers talking about how bad the markers on the trail were.

I'd thought the markers were OK.
I’d even thought whoever had the task of figuring out the best place to put them, had done a great job. 

Burringurrah sits in the middle of the Mt Augustus National Park about 1000 kilometres north of Perth in the West Australian Outback. It’s remote (even by Australian standards), rugged, extremely hot in summer and surrounded by arid vegetation as far as the eye can see.

Beedoboondu (or The Summit Trail) is a challenging 12km, steep, grade 5 track that makes its way up the giant rock through pristine bush to the 700 metre summit. There are lots of unclear paths, plenty of uneven or loose ground, boulders in the way, narrow sections close to cliff edges and some on-all-fours scrambling. The view from the summit is worth every misstep, bruise, scratch and moment of suspense between seeing a marker and locating the next one.

Once you enter the trail, apart from the small circular markers (yes, some of them are a bit worn) and the odd set of footprints, you might not know it was a planned hiking trail.

And that’s what I love about wilderness trails.

They take us into places that connect us to nature, to our wild; where we can 'undomesticate' ourselves, use our instincts, challenge our bodies.  In nature we reconnect with our spirit, with others, be inspired and even healed.
On trails we can learn about cultural and natural heritage, about nature and about ourselves.
Trails can support local economies and generate income for people who live near them.

When I think about what it took to get Beedoboondu trail up and ready for public use, it's amazing anyone bothered.

Someone had to convince stakeholders / secure funding / seek tenders / conduct environmental surveys / identify threatened species / mark sensitive habitats / consult with local Wadjari custodians for cultural issues / assess risks / attempt various routes / select the safest routes with least impact / write many reports / get the right markers for that extreme climate / get a team of people to fix them to the rock…

The point is even trails that don’t have a lot of infrastructure are created with a lot of effort, resources, and understanding of the many benefits they bring.

As someone who has chosen to earn part of her livelihood on trails, I know these benefits first hand. 🥰

Are we taking trails and their benefits for granted?

International Trails Day is a day to celebrate everything that trails provide and ensure they are never taken for granted.

Here in WA our trails give us access to some of the most pristine, biodiverse and blow-your-mind beautiful wilderness environments in the world. That is so worth celebrating!

Here are images from 6 Western Australia Trails we are celebrating today.

  1. Beedoboondu - The Summit Trail - Mt Augustus National Park

Mt Augustus Burringurrah nearing summit

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Mt Augustus Buringurrah Mulla Mulla

2. The Escarpment Base Trail - Kennedy Range National Park


Kennedy Range National Park

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Kennedy Range National Park


3. The Hakea Trail – The Fitzgerald River National Park

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4. The Mamang Trail – The Fitzgerald River National Park

The Hakea Trail in the Fitzgerald River National Park

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Fitzgerald Beach on the Mamang Trail - Fitzgerald River National Park


5. Yued Ponar Trail - Lesueur National Park

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Yued Ponar Trail Lesueur National Park

6. The Cape to Cape - Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park

The Cape to Cape - Photo by Donna Wolter

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The Cape to Cape - Wilyabrup Cliffs

For reliable and detailed maps, optimal times, conditions and what to expect go to www.trailswa.com

A Jewel Beetle - Castiarina cruentata- East Mt Barren in the distance - Fitzgerald River National Park

World Biodiversity Day 2023 - building back biodiversity →

May 22, 2023 in Wildflowers, Biodiversity

Today is World Biodiversity Day – a day established to promote awareness of how much biodiversity matters.

Most people know that biodiversity is important.
Here in Western Australia we hear the word ‘biodiversity’ often. Most of the time in the same sentence as ‘floral’ or ‘hotspot’.

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Tags: biodiversity, wildflowers, National Parks

The Nature’s Window Loop Trail - Kalbarri National Park

The Murchison Gorge - Walking A Wild and Ancient Landscape

May 07, 2023

I made it to the start of the Nature’s Window Loop Trail at 6:45 am.
It was February, and the trail is closed from 7 am.

For good reason.

The heat is intense in the summer months between November and February.

Feeling the heat … 8 am and already over 35 degrees in the Murchison Gorge - Kalbarri National Park

 It took me just over 3 hours to complete the 9 kilometres of this impressive class 4 trail, with a couple of short stops for shade.

Despite the intense heat, this first and short immersion into this ancient landscape of white and red layered sandstone, weathered rocky ledges skirting the winding river, sandy riverbanks lined with paperbarks and reeds, black swans … it was a magical introduction.

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Enough to make me want to come back for more.

 And we did.

We walked the 38 km of the 80 km riverine system, from Ross Graham Lookout to Nature’s Window, twice more before offering it as one of our Edgewalkers adventures.

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The first of these was also in February. There had been a dip in temperature rom low 40s to mid 20’s, I got permission from the head ranger to scope the gorge with a photographer for 4 days.

With water levels at their lowest, crossing back and forth across the river is easy, most of the time there are enough exposed rocks to step comfortably all the way across.

 The second time was in June.

The difference was significant.
First, the lower temperatures made walking with 15 plus kilos of water and food much easier. We also did not need to drink as much water.

Edgewalkers guide Kirra Diconza, staying close to the edge of the Murchison River - Kalbarri National Park

 Second, the higher water levels meant having to work out the safest place to cross the river and shorter distances covered every day.
It also meant having wet boots from the start.

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Both times were breathtaking.

The Murchison Gorge is one of our regular walking adventures usually run in June or August. We love this raw West Australian wilderness.

Yellow poppies - Papaver nudicaule

Mongolian Wildflowers ... through the Tavan Bogd National Park

May 04, 2023

Above: poppies above the Potanin Glacier Papaver ammophilum or nudicaule?

Walking through the Tavan Bogd National Park in Mongolia’s northwest in spring and summer is a delight for the senses.

The spectacle of snow-capped mountains always visible in the distance, picturesque rocky gorges, raucous streams rushing or gently meandering; the changing terrain underfoot: soft grassy stretches, sometimes dry, sometimes wet and boggy, dirt and gravel paths, loose rock, slippery slate, banks of unmelted snow, scree.

The scent of alpine larches mixed with the scent of juniper and the surprisingly not unpleasant odour of livestock scat that litters the ground. The calls of domesticated animals that wonder free throughout: horses, yaks, sheep, goats, camels and dogs; the scrambling of land squirrels and marmots, overhead the occasional shrill cries of hawks and kites.

And to add a magical touch, scattered in bursts daring bright, from under slate and in between rocks, sometimes carpets of them, sometimes solitary tufts swaying defiantly and vibrant, an abundance of wildflowers celebrate with jubilant colour the end of the long and relentless winter that until not long before had covered everything with ice and snow.

Wildflowers are everywhere and although we are still learning the names of these beauties, here are some of them.
Please feel free to make any corrections!

Siberian Globeflower - Trollius altaicus

China Pink - Dianthus Chinensis

Forget-me-nots - Myosotis krylova

Plumeless saw-wort - Serratula centauroides

Purple Pasque Flower - Pulsatilla sp.

Silver Speedwell - Veronica incana

Eriophorum latifolium?

Locoweed - Oxytropis sp

Alpine Aster - Aster alpinus

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This article is a work-in-progress … wildflowers abound throughout the Tavan Bogd National Park and each year it seems that more that have not been photographed appear … they adorn our surroundings while we walk, when we rest and eat, and fill the hike with burst of colourful joy.

Rhaponticum uniflorum

4 benefits of going vegan... according to science

April 27, 2023

I’ve been a vegetarian more than half my life.

When I made this choice, my health was not my main motivation. I just didn’t want to eat anything that had been killed.

However, over the years, I believe that following a vegetarian, mostly vegan diet has kept me in optimal health. But don’t take my word for it.

 Here are 4 science-based reasons why going vegan (or reducing your animal product intake) may make you healthier.

1.     Reduced risk of heart disease, stroke and dementia


The top 3 killers of Australians and probably other countries following typical animal based western diets, are heart disease, stroke and dementia.

Eating more fresh fruit and vegetables, grains, nuts and legumes in a balanced vegan diet, may reduce your chance of having high blood pressure by up to 75%.

You will probably also display healthier cholesterol and blood sugar levels, both helping to reduce heart disease by up to 46%

Lowered cholesterol and blood pressure can also minimise the chance of cardiovascular issues such as stroke. One study showed that the more fruit and vegetables you eat the less chance of stroke.

Lastly, increase intake of fruit and vegetables may also help slow down brain diseases like Alzheimer’s. It appears that the polyphenols (compounds found in abundance in fruit and vegetables) have a significant impact slowing down and even reversing brain decline.

2.    Reduced risk of cancer

People eating a vegan diet may have as much as 15% less chance of getting cancer and, if they’ve survived it, keeping it at bay.

Because vegan diets have a much higher consumption of vegetables, fruit and legumes, and soy products the chance of certain types of cancers are reduced. These include stomach, colon, prostate, lung, mouth, throat and even breast cancer.

And because vegans do not eat any meat at all, they will not consume cancer-promoting processed, red or smoked meats. This will reduce their chances of stomach, prostate, colon and breast cancer.

3.    Healthy Weight and Excess Weight loss

Vegans may have almost 5% lower BMI than omnivores, even when they consumed the same amount of calories. There may be up to 20 pounds difference between an average adult vegan and an adult meat-eaters.

Losing extra weight may be easier on a vegan diet. This may be for a combinations of reasons. Grains and vegetables are digested more slowly because their glycemic levels are lower. Also, the fibre content is higher so vegans feel more satisfied and not feel hungry so quickly.


4.    Increased longevity

Given that a vegan diet may reduce the incidence of heart disease, stroke, dementia, some cancers and type 2 diabetes and help maintain a healthy weight, it is only significantly increase your chances of living a longer and healthier life.

There really are no reasons for not trying a vegan diet.

We still need a lot more research - here are some links to existing research.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4845138/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4845138/
  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24811336/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25312617/
https://progressreport.cancer.gov/prevention/fruit_vegetable
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ijc.31612
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26143683/
https://progressreport.cancer.gov/prevention/fruit_vegetable
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/vegan-diet-studies
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29659968/

Boranup Forest - Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park - Western Australia

Women and fungi – allies in the survival of our planet

March 06, 2023

“The way forward isn’t a road we take; the way forward is a road women make.” 
Amanda Gorman

I started this blog wanting to write about the current biodiversity crisis, around the time of the UN Biodiversity Conference in Montreal last year. 

I read some of the latest and tragic statistics on the snowballing speed at which our activity is killing other species. 
 
Mammals, insects, turtles, fish, vertebrates, invertebrates, wetlands, coral, forests. 
All life on Earth is under threat.
 
I thought, woah, we don’t want to read more about that. 
I’ll have a mass-extinction of subscribers if I hit you with all that gloom.

I took a break from writing. 

I went back to reading Entangled Life a book about fungi, mycology and ground-breaking research on the remarkable properties of fungi. 

Maybe I'd take some notes, I'd love to write more about fungi. 

I could spend all day reading about them.
I did. The whole day, maybe two; no notes.

Did you know the largest organism on the planet is a fungus? Armillaria ostoyae – they call it the honey mushroom; 3.5 sq miles under a forest in Oregon. 

I pushed on with biodiversity. I made myself read a few paragraphs about the conference in Montreal. 
 
The nations of the world had agreed on a ‘landmark’ global biodiversity framework.
4 goals, 23 targets.
30 percent of the planet protected by 2030. 
 
Hope?
Déjà vu?
Blah blah blah,’ said Greta Thunberg.

I googled Greta to find out how old she was now.  She’s 20 and she’d released a book: The Climate Book.  I downloaded it, put in my earbuds and listened to it for the next 3 days. 

It’s impressive, urgent and angry, with contributions from 100 global leaders in their field; it is also authoritative. 
 
‘When it comes to the climate and ecological crisis, we have solid unequivocal scientific evidence of the need for change. 
The science is as solid as it gets.
 We need a new way of thinking,’ says Greta.

We sure do. 

I spent two days writing marketing copy instead.  
 
When I come back to this blog, it’s the middle of February, soon I’d have to write about International Women’s Day. 
 
I sigh, it’s time to pull my finger out.
I google different combinations of ‘women, fungi, biodiversity’. 
 
And there, on the world wide web, women, fungi and biodiversity, I found. 

HAPPY INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY!

 Suzanne Simard, is a Canadian professor of forest ecology at the university of British Columbia.

She was the first to suggest the possibility that trees move carbon and other resources through fungal networks under the forest floor.

 Then she proved it.

 Unequivocally.

Her pioneering research into what she coined ‘the Wood Wide Web’ showed that forests are intelligent systems.

 They communicate.

They collaborate.

 These systems are sustained by a mutually beneficial relationship between trees and the mycorrhizal networks of mycelia (fungi).

They are also overseen and directed by ‘mother trees’ who ensure that carbon, sugar, hormones, nitrogen, water, and other resources are sent to the trees that need them the most.

 Darwinists, whose ‘survival of the fittest’, competitive paradigm has been turned on its head, were resistant.

 Simard struggled to find funding.

But science is science, and a PhD and more than 200 articles on the subject, could not be silenced.

 Simard is trying to influence logging practices, a principal contributor to biodiversity loss.  

 If logging continues to ignore the role Mother Trees play in the resilience of old growth forests, they will destroy any possibility of survival and renewal.

She makes an analogy to bolts being removed from an airplane.
You can take quite a few bolts and screws out without causing any great damage, but if you take out the bolts that hold the wings to the body of the plane, there is nothing to do but plummet.

Likewise, in a forest, certain trees hold the forest together.

In her book, Finding the Mother Tree, Simard shares this important understanding of forests and their innate wisdom.

She also leads The Mother Tree Project, a research project into old growth forests and all the ways in which biodiversity, regeneration and carbon storage can be protected.

Giuliana Furci - Fungi Foundation

Giuliana Furci, is a Chilean mycologist who established and leads the Fungi Foundation, an international NGO completely dedicated to the study and protection of fungi.

Furci and her colleagues (in Chile and around the world) are passionate about their work to influence law, policy, and research to include and protect fungi.

In July 2021, the Chilean government became the first in the world to include fungi in their environmental law.

Their declaration called on world leaders and scientists to

“… create protections for fungi under international, regional and domestic law and policy, both to state the equal significance of fungi among the kingdoms of life and to help address the threats that jeopardize the ability of many fungal species to thrive and survive,”

 Furci was responsible for this important declaration and continues to lead this initiative.

They want ‘funga’ to recognised as the interconnectors of life on the planet and to be given the same protection, funding and importance as flora and fauna.

Why?

Because if we want to have an impact on climate change, we have to take into account the 450 quadrillion km of mycorrhizal networks underground that help sequester at least 5 billion tons of carbon dioxide every year.
(BTW quadrillion is 450 plus fifteen zeros - or one thousand trillions, i.e. a lot)

 Because there are between 2 and 4 million species of fungi, and we hardly know anything about them.

Because the biodiversity of the fungi is integral to the survival and resilience of all life on earth. Fungi were instrumental in the evolution of life on the planet.

 Because without fungi life would not be possible.

 In a recent article in Time Magazine she calls for fungal education to be included in school and academic curricula.

‘Accounts of the living world that do not include fungi are accounts of a world that doesn’t exist.’

Find out more about this important initiative here.

Guiliana Furci and Suzanne Simard are inspiring leaders in their fields; their work is ground breaking and important.

We celebrate and applaud them.

We celebrate women all around the world.

We celebrate our stories, our intelligence and creativity, our resilience and capacity for love and empathy; our adventurous spirits and intuition, our discipline and physical prowess, our humour and our courage.

But let’s also remember that women still make up a minority in the sciences, in research, in decision-making and in leadership.

Let’s remember that 70% of women live in poverty. And that at the coal face of the biodiversity crisis are women and girls who have to work harder to find wood for fuel, clean water and plants for food and medicine.

So, let’s celebrate.

But let’s also act in whatever way we can.

Imagine the world if all women had the freedom and agency to pursue their passions, reach their fullest potential and offer the world their unique contribution.

Let’s act because we too must be allies in the survival of our planet.

3 reasons why walking makes us more creative

December 31, 2022

The physical benefits of walking are many: cardiovascular exercise improves circulation, helps maintain stable weight, good digestion, stronger bones, reduces the risk of various diseases, in all, walking is great for keeping healthy.

But you already knew that!

What you might not know, but you have sensed intuitively, is that walking is a way to access higher levels of creativity.

1.  It’s in our DNA

 Why we became bi-pedalled is unknown.

 According to some anthropologists, walking on two feet, may be one of the primary actions that shifted our collective human destiny, separating us from our primate cousins.

 The fossilised footprints dating back 3.7 million years found in east Africa in the mid 1970s are proof that even before we had stone tools we had stood up and walked on two feet.

 In effect, for millions of years we travelled on foot.

 Some anthropologists believe that we became creative from a need to learn as we moved across the planet.

 Walking meant we had to learn new environments, new edible plants, new danger. We encountered new challenges, so we solved problems.

 Learning and solving problems helped us expand our cognitive ability. It may even be that the reason we are creative is because we stood up, freed our hands, and started making stuff.

 We have been making stuff ever since. Walking and making is in our evolutionary DNA.

As Jon Lineen puts it walking has ‘influenced and accelerated humanity’s creative capacity and thus our evolution’.

  2. We are starting to prove it

 In 2014 Stanford University behavioural scientists conducted four experiments to test the effects of walking on creativity, when compared to sitting.

 The 176 participants were given tasks used to gauge aspects of creativity.

 They looked at three main areas associated with creativity: divergent, convergent, and analogical thinking.

 Divergent thinking is the ability to generate a high quantity of possible solutions and ideas. In this area those walking or who had just walked generated 81% more ideas than those who had been sitting.

 Convergent thinking is the ability to discern best solutions out of those ideas. While the increase in this area for those walking was not as high, there was still a 20% increase compared to the sitters.

 When it came to generating analogies, that is, similes, metaphors and complex comparisons, everyone who walked came up with at least one novel and complex analogy compared to only half of those seated.

 Their results confirmed what many have known for a long time: walking increases our ability to generate ideas and often quality analogies.

3.  If they did it…

From Virginia Woolf to Simone de Beauvoir; from the Bronte sisters to Charles Dickens to Friedrich Nietzsche; from Georgia O’Keefe to Daphne du Maurier, from Einstein to Steve Jobs; philosophers and writers; thinkers of many different moulds, have been recorded as being partial to a stroll, predisposed to a promenade, wild about a walk in the park.

Why?

Even before the Stamford experiments proved its benefit on creativity, walking has been an activity attributed with giving us access to a state of ‘flow’ as identified by psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi.

Flow is when we stay in a state of heightened focus, like when we do something we love, and we have some skill in it so that we feel so present, and it seems that time stands still.

Flow is associated with creativity and improvisation.

 It requires focus but it’s not so challenging that we can’t think about anything else. Like walking.

Most of us are proficient enough walkers to be able to let the mind wander while we wonder and think, thought after thought percolating effortlessly. While part of our brain is engaged in keeping us upright and putting one step in front of the other, another part is making connections, associations and imagining.

As Rebecca Solnit writes:

‘Walking allows us to be in our bodies and in the world without being made busy by them. It leaves us free to think without being wholly lost in our thoughts’

 

Walking is in our developmental DNA. Walking slows us down enough to let our thoughts travel through unchartered spaces in our minds where they become inklings, ideas and even solutions, where patterns emerge and perspective gain clarity.

How it happens and why is still quite a mystery, but we have some proof that walking improves our ability to be creative.

 Through the ages some have known this intuitively.

Today, you might know this too.

Malchin Peak - Tavan Bogd National Park - Mongolia

3 reasons why adventuring out of our comfort zone can help us reach our highest potential

October 02, 2022

In an Instagram-curated world, hiking adventures may be depicted by an image of intrepid, outdoor-gear clad people standing on a remote mountain top or a rugged outback river gorge.

The effort it took to get to that spectacular place is implied but our focus is on the triumph of the arrival – the destination.

We don’t see the grimace that went with that first step to cross a cold river as the icy water fills our boots. Or the rank wet smell as we slide our feet into damp socks and wet boots the next morning.

There’s no sound of gasping for air as altitude and scree conspire against us up the side of a steep mountain.

 There’s no mention of the raw skin left on our hips from the rubbing of the backpack straps, or blisters or lost toenails.

 We have no inkling of how many wrong turns were taken and whether snakes, bears or swarms of mosquitoes were encountered on the adventure.

Murchison Gorge - Kalbarri National Park - Western Australia

More specifically, we do not see what personal fears and limitations were conquered to get to that magnificent spot.

There is no attention drawn to the many times the adventure takes us out of our comfort zone and the transformative impact that can have on our lives.

Because that’s the thing about adventure.

It’s all about getting out of your comfort zone!

 And getting our comfort zone can be life changing and transformative.

 Here are three reasons why:

1.      Stepping out of our comfort zones fosters a mindset of growth and learning.

 Our comfort zone is a state of being in which we are ‘comfortable’ because there is no stress or anxiety; we are familiar with what we are experiencing, and we do not need to do anything we do not how to do.

 Since we are not pushing outside of our limits we don’t get to know what we are capable of doing.

Murchison Gorge - Kalbarri National Park

The first time we step into a river and start to tentatively feel our way around slippery rocks and wade in the opaque, cold water we may not know what we are doing but when we get to the other side of the river, we KNOW we can.

 We will never NOT know that we can.

 That is transformation.

 Plenty of studies tell us that if it’s too easy we do not learn.

 We also get to embrace challenge instead of avoiding it.

 There is nowhere to go once you are halfway up the side of a scree- covered mountain at 4,000 metres. You either come down or keep going. This carries over into other aspects of our lives. It builds resilience. There is nothing more to do but walk if you are half way along a remote beach with limited access.

The Cape to Cape - Margaret River Region - Western Australia

Which means we learn to persist rather than give up.

And as many a self-development guru will tell us, persistence is power. To achieve great things, whether it is a Phd, a successful business or healthy relationships and communication, it takes persistence.

What is more, through persistence and embracing the challenge we get understand why the effort matters and how much it is worth once we get to a place that literally takes our breath away with its beauty.

Turgen National Park - Mongolia

We cannot exist healthily in constant stress and discomfort without it taking a toll emotionally, psychologically and physically. But most of us spend way too much time shrouded in certainty and comfort.

As Maslow proposed, once we have met our most basic needs, we are left with a driving desire to attain higher levels of purpose and self-actualisation.

2.     Stepping out of our comfort zone can give us new perspectives.

 The view from the top of Malchin Peak in the north-west Mongolian wilderness has literally brough tears to my eyes each time I have summitted. The view of mountains and snow peaks and glaciers as far as the eyes can see leaves an imprint and physically changes our brain.

 These new perspectives are not only physically as we see something we have not seen before and that cannot be seen from anywhere else; but they are also, emotional and symbolic as they open our minds to new possibilities and ideas.

 We become able to turn a fear of failing into opportunities for learning

 We learn that there are different ways of viewing EVERYTHING.

Kamchatka - Mutnovsky Volcano Hike 2019

3.     Stepping out of our comfort zone makes us happy.

This may be for a number of reasons. First, as described above, the overwhelming  emotion of beauty can give us a ‘peak experience’, that is, an experience of intense joy that is ‘ meaningful and transformational’.

My first ever solo hike was to the Annapurna basecamp in Nepal. I had decided to do it without a porter or a guide and so I hiked on my own for 10 days. As I approached one of the passes, the mist rose around me covering any view other than the path and nearby vegetation. When I woke up in the morning and looked around at the clear, sharp and breathtaking spectacle of the Himalayan mountain I was overwhelmed with emotion. Something that was intensely joyful and unforgettable.

Himalayas - Nepal

Another reason we feel happy when we step out of our comfort zone, is that we can feel a huge sense of accomplishment that fuels our self-esteem and makes us feel powerful.

On another solo walk, this time in the Turgen National Park in northwest Mongolia, uncertain about the route and distance to my pick up point, I was in a heightened state of awareness as I walked alone over a 3,100 metre pass to a gigantic view of a meandering river that stretched for miles. After more than 35 kms walking, I reached the place and waited, very wary and uncertain. When I saw the driver and his smiling Tuvan wife approach in the distance, I felt an immeasurable sense of achievement and capability.

I had done it! Nobody can take that away.

Lastly, as some post-pandemic research has shown, breaking that feeling of being in a rut can be simply overcome by doing something that is outside our comfort zone. For some people this could be hiking a 4,000 metre mountain in a remote corner of the planet and for others clambering up a 360 metres mount littered with beautiful wildflowers is enough to shake them out of complacency and dullness.

Climbing down East Mt Barren - Fitzgerald River National Park

East Mt Barren - Fitzgerald River National Park - smiles all round.

Stepping out of our comfort zone, in whatever form that takes, fosters a mindset for growth and learning, it opens our minds to new perspectives, and it just makes us happy!  

When was the last time you stepped out of your comfort zone?

Cowslip Orchids …Caledenia sp

Kukenarup Memorial - a place of healing

June 21, 2022

 “I am blooming from the wound where I once bled”
Rumi

Kukenarup Memorial, about 15 km out of Ravensthorpe, is an eerily quiet and deeply peaceful place.
Walking around the short trail in seems at first very solemn. It is, after all, the memorial of a massacre of local indigenous people perpetrated by local European settlers in the early 1800s. One of the first of its kind in Australia.

At the same time, it is a place of great beauty - full of wildflowers.

Read More

Tavan Bogd National Park

9 Days Through the Mongolian Wilderness

May 12, 2022

The skies are almost always blue, the landscape is breathtakingly stunning & the wilderness unspoilt - Mongolia is a walker's paradise & a perfect setting for exploration & self-discovery.

Since 2015 I have been travelling to the Tavan Bogd National Park, approximately 1,700 km from Ulaan Baatar (UB), Mongolia’s capital, and home to the Mongolian section of the Altai Mountains.

In summer, many Tuvan and Kazakh nomadic herders bring their animals to graze in its pastures. It is an idyllic place to spend day after day walking immersed in unspoilt and remote wilderness with waterfalls, streams, glaciers and Mongolia’s tallest peaks.

The journey to the Tavan Bogd National Park starts in Ulgii, a town of about 30,000 people - mostly Kazakh muslims - in the western province of Bayan-Ulgii.

Ulgii - looking across the River Hovd.

DAY 1

We leave Ulgii from the northwest end of the town, past the airport where the bitumen road ends and almost seamlessly veers slightly to the left and onto a dirt track. Most of Mongolia road travel takes place along this colossal network of dirt roads and paths on which you rarely see a post or sign for directions.

It is an exciting, bumpy ride inside the Russian furgon (like a 4WD Combi van), coasting down the side of hills; bouncing and sliding on the felt seat covers, slowing down often to let the herds of sheep or goats scatter around us, and let us through. 

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All around the views are expansive. Long stretches of undulating grassy green hills with yaks, horses, goats and sheep grazing in herds. In the horizon snow-peaked mountains, beside us rushing rivers and creeks whose crossings require skilled 4WD action over uneven, pebbled banks; above us, endless skies.


The 150 km between Ulgii and the National Park takes about 5 to 6 hours and we arrive at the southern entry (only 12 km from the border with China).

Our hike starts here, with a bridge crossing over the southern-most end of Khoton Lake at about 2,000 metres above sea level. 

Because the National Park is found at such proximity to the borders with both China and Russia, there are a number of check points with local rangers. Just past the bridge to the south is the first check-point. Permits and passports need to be shown to the military guard there - they also check that you are travelling with a local guide. 

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After sitting in the van for half the day it is great to finally start walking, Khoton lake on the right, China not far on our left and all around scattered larch trees and remaining trunks, hacked, evidence of significant clearing, probably for firewood.

What is most remarkable about hiking through this wilderness is that camp can be set up anywhere. Most of the time we walk for 8 - 10 km on day one and find a grassy patch, free of twigs and rocks, near the lake’s edge.

When the sun sets on this first day of this 9-day hike it is not unusual to see a pack of horses or the silhouette of yaks in the distance...a great last view of the day on this already amazing journey.

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DAY 2

We set off early and continue walking along the edge of the lake, as close to the water as possible, regularly coming across herds of yaks, sheep or goats grazing. Occasionally, in the distance a couple of young children play in front of a 'ger' or yurt. Often local nomads are setting up or taking down their camps, or have cheese drying in the sun.

Walking on this side of the lake means walking through patches of fairly dense larch forest. We also walk through quite boggy terrain surrounding meandering creeks and brooks that empty into the lake. We have to cross many of these waterways by taking off our shoes and wading through calf high water.

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There are times when to get across the delta-like network of streams emptying into one side of the lake, we have to take off our shoes and wade to sandy islands that deceivingly seem to offer a shallower place for crossing. Sometimes we just jump on the horses and let them carry us across.

In the mountains the weather can change very quickly and sometimes we have to hurry to get our wet weather gear out and scramble to take cover in between the branches of a small, bushy trees. 

The second night is also beside the lake, much further north. We camp only 6 or 7 metres from the edge of the lake, the water laps the mossy pebbles all night while the moon and a warm fire makes it a very peaceful night. The fire is a great place to dry wet shoes - there is always plenty of firewood at this altitude.


DAY 3 

I often have the best night’s sleep while camping and wake before sunrise to a faint, early morning moon suspended pearl-like above the lake, usually followed by a sensational sunrise. 

We often meet Kazakh women and children as we walk away from the campground - they are very hospitable and often invite us in for tea, bread and dried cheese.

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The third day is a bit more rigorous with some hills offering a welcomed challenge. It is just the right combination of warm sun and cool breeze for it too.

At the northern end of the lake, where the river flows into it from the mountain glaciers, we cross another long wooden bridge that takes us almost directly to the second ranger's station. 

The ranger spots us from a distance and is already approaching on his motorbike by the time we reach the post.

Further north we leave the river on one side as we start to climb steadily up a large rocky outcrop fringed abundantly with juniper bushes and follow the clear path along the rocky ridge of a gorge.

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With the added elevation come impressive views of the lake on one side and snow-peaked mountain tops in the distance on the other. It does not matter where we look, the views are magnificent.

We leave the wide open space of the valley to go into a gorge where the valley deepens and starts to ascend into the mountains.

We camp beside the fast-moving river, loud and powerful, at a spot that has been used as a campsite before; firewood has been left stacked on one side for us to find. 

So many streams as we climb higher into the mountains

At the northern end of the lake, where the river flows into it from the mountain glaciers, we cross another long wooden bridge that takes us almost directly to the second ranger's station. 

Further north we leave the river on one side as we start to climb steadily up a large rocky outcrop fringed abundantly with juniper bushes and follow the clear path along the rocky ridge of a gorge.

With the added elevation come impressive views of the lake on one side and snow-peaked mountain tops in the distance on the other. It does not matter where we look, the views are magnificent.

We leave the wide open space of the valley to go into a gorge where the valley deepens and starts to ascend into the mountains.

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We camp beside the fast-moving river, loud and powerful, at a spot that has been used as a campsite before; firewood has been left stacked on one side for us to find. 


DAY 4

Although the river is loud and the ground hard, neither deters us from sleeping well. It is one of the most magical spots on the hike, with the river foaming white as it races round the rocky bends, speeding past us roaring. 

And yet, from the moment we set off, walking is more than wonderful that whole fourth day. Most people start to get into a groove, become comfortable with the weight of their packs, and start to fully notice, enjoy and appreciate the flowers and insects, the different succulents sprouting out of rock crannies, the sounds of kites, hawks and eagles, the scurrying land squirrels…

We continue to gradually climb. The terrain, a combination of arid gravelly paths over rocky outcrops, clear dirt tracks through patches of forest and bog like wetlands on the lower sections of the valley… fast moving streams cascade down the side of the hills around us and long and narrow waterfalls can be seen in the distant mountain sides.

We walk past a small lake surrounded by wildflowers and it feels like we are truly in the mountains. Walking over the wetlands keeps us alert, leaping over deceivingly shallow puddles to avoid drenching boots. Climbing becomes tougher and steeper, breathing quickens as we ascend above the valley and zig zag up the side of the mountain.  

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We are starting to climb towards 2,600 metres here and this is when we start to sweat and puff and feel the weight or our packs. We also cross the second widest stream. It is not so shallow, about 30 metres wide and its glacier water is bitingly, painfully cold. We have crossed on foot before but if possible we always choose to cross on horseback. 

Once we get across the stream, we climb a few more hundred meters and camp once again, on the softest, warmest grass next to a narrow brook.

DAY 5

What a sublime view to wake up to and how tranquil is the sound of the brook whispering beside the camping spot. Squirrels and marmots are all around and we once even saw a Mongolian mountain goat - Capra sibirica - but they are too fast to photograph.

Day five is the toughest climb and altitude makes breathing short and fast, but the views keep getting more and more magnificent as we reach the 3,400-metre pass. The ground up here is covered with chunks of black and grey slate and the sharp chilly wind is offset by the bright, warm sun, and being surrounded by a 360 degree views of the top of several peaks and smaller glaciers.

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Mountain shrine at mountain pass 3,300 metres

All around are mountain edges, shrines, the river flowing in the distance, glaciers, changing terrain & wildflowers. This is a breathtaking and very dramatic section of walking; a sensory overload from every direction.

As we descend to the valley, we can sometimes see the activities of nomadic Tuvan herders. We can see nomads fixing a truck, or checking on the drying goat skins spread like offerings outside a ger. Or a team of men and women finishing a day of grass cutting (using scythes) and packing it tight into the back of a truck.

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DAY 6

Today we walk under the bold and vivid blue of the sky, over the summer green & yellow hues of the grassy slopes and with the murmur of the distant river in our ears. Occasionally, a rabbit, a marmot or a land squirrel scampers in front of us, looking for their underground shelter; wildflowers abound.

Before turning north towards the next pass and our final destination,  we go off the path to a rocky outcrop where ancient petroglyphs are found. These rock carvings are evidence that these mountains were inhabited at least 10,000 ago. 

Once over the pass, the descent to the Tsagaan Gol River is steady; the slope growing steeper as we approach the raucous rushing water. 

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The Tsagaan Gol River, also known as White River, is milky white from the sediment and silt it carries from the glacier. This part of the National Park is also one of the most popular entries. Many people arrive directly here by 4WD and day-hike up to the base camp then return to camp near the river. Another ranger meets us here and checks our permits.

On all the other camping spots we are alone, here there are usually a few groups, depending on the time of the year. It is a place to have some social contact and to rest before the final ascent to basecamp.

Tsagaan Gol - White River - Tavan Bogd National Park

DAY 7

The ascent from the river camp up to the base camp and the Potanin Glacier is steep for about 1 km, then it steadily rises to over 3,000 metres. The ground is boggy at times, with squelching, muddy sections to manoeuvre.

The five sacred peaks get closer and closer. It is all about the journey, of course, but it is an awesome feeling when you finally get a clear, sharp view of the destination.

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The basecamp above the glacier is where most people camp. The Potanin Glacier is the longest in Mongolia stretching for over 14 km through the Altai Mountains into Russia. Sadly, like many other glaciers around the world, the Potanin Glacier is decreasing in size at approximately 11 metres a year.

In the evening, the sky can really put on a show that no photos can do justice to it.

DAY 8 

Waking up to the 180 degree view of the five sacred peaks - Nairamdal, Burged, Ulgii, Malchin, Khuiten and the Potanin Glacier below is one of those moments that gets etched in the mind to be recalled many times over, years after it has passed. It is a moment that holds power, mystery and beauty.

Tavan Bogd - the five sacred peaks

On day 8 some of us climb up Malchin Peak, the only peak that does not require equipment or experience in alpine climbing. It is far from easy though. First, there is the 5 km walk to the foot of the peak.

Walking to the base of Malchin Peak.

Then there is the tough walk uphill, at altitude. It requires stamina and patience as we very slowly walk up the slippery and loose scree. The ‘marked’ path is often not clear and the weather changes several times during one day. There is scrambling over boulders, slushing through wet snow and slipping backwards on the loose scree. And then, after a few hours, and a hundred stops to catch your breath, there it is!  

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The peak and the 360 degree views of extraordinary panoramas that make me pinch myself every time. 

We don’t stay long at the summit, it’s windy and usually cold and we still need to get back down and walk the 5 km back to basecamp. It’s a long day and not everyone is up for it, but if you are, it’s worth it!


DAY 9

About two kilometres after leaving basecamp there is a large shrine or ‘tobo’ where Mongolians - Buddhist, Muslim or not - leave offerings to the spirits of the mountain. Biscuits, juniper, prayer flags, money and even animal sacrifices are left and prayers sent high up into the mountain deities.

Mountain shrine Tavan Bird National P

From this spot the glacier the 5 sacred peaks are clearly visible for one last time before we start to head to the northeastern entrance to the national park.

There is one more stream to negotiate, before reaching the ranger’s post, but this is usually shallow and although still icy, it is very easily managed.

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There is a feeling of sadness on this last day and as we make our way back through the Mongolian countryside to Ulgii I am always overcome with a feeling of great achievement and fulfilment, as well as gratitude for having witnessed such pristine wilderness.

All the food we serve is vegetarian or plant-based.

3 reasons why Edgewalkers is a vegetarian company

April 20, 2022

A couple of weeks ago someone posted a query on our Edgewalkers Facebook Page about one of our walks. 

I asked them what dates they were interested in coming.
Their cheeky answer was: "we'll come the day you serve meat!
I laughed and wrote back that I wished them a happy hike ... with another company!

Of course, there are plenty of other companies choosing to cater for the growing plant-based and vegetarian clientele; however, most businesses that serve food generally provide meat options.  And that is fine. 

Edgewalkers, is a vegetarian and plant-based company.

For some people this is the reason they’ve booked with us. 
For a small minority of people, it may be the reason why they haven’t.
For most, it is not important, they welcome the opportunity to try something different and leave having tried ‘some of the best plant-based food’ they have ever eaten.

Here are some reasons why I chose to make Edgewalkers a plant-based & vegetarian company:

Reason number 1: Me

I am vegetarian. I know; it’s all my fault. 

I became a vegetarian while living and working in Japan in 1991 - I was 22 years old and I had a moment (you could call it an epiphany) half way down a set of stairs leading into the meat section of a Daiei department store in Nagoya, when I realised that I did not belong in the life-death cycle as a meat-eater. There was something about the beautifully wrapped and glistening meat cuts that I was descending into that had this momentous impact on my life. 

Just to be clear, I am not against other people eating meat. 

In fact, I think that it is a natural cycle of life and death and like many other animals humans can fall into a number of categories. We can be like lions, sharks, hyenas. We can be like chooks, otters and monkeys. And we can be elephants, bison, elks. 

I am an elk. I’m fine with grass. I thrive on plant-based food. I am not naturally inclined to fish or hunt, or to kill anything in general for food. 

So, there is no way that I could be part of an enterprise that involves going out and procuring chicken drumsticks or pork chops. There was no other avenue for me in this business.’ 


Reason number 2: Sustainability

We are aspiring to be a fully accredited ecotourism company.  And yes, it makes a huge difference to reduce how much we participate in animal agriculture. 

  • Between 15 - 25% of greenhouse gas emissions come from animal agriculture (depending on what you read and how the carbon footprint is calculated) ...however you work it - it is significant.

  • Beef, lamb and dairy contribute almost 60% of all the emissions produced by food production... I know, it’s huge. Even if we cut back on eating beef and lamb to once a week and cheese and milk to a few times a week, we are making an impact. This is according to peer-reviewed journal the Lancet & other reputable sites like the Medical Journal of Australia, not my opinion.

  • Our water consumption is reduced by 55% on a plant based diet. For example, there are various calculations of this but generally to produce 100 g of beef protein, it takes approximately 700 litres of water - for the equivalent protein from tofu it only takes about 90 litres of water, 8 times less water.

  • It’s the easiest and quickest way we can immediately make a difference…

Reason number 3: Wellness 

Edgewalkers is also a wellness company. Therefore we are here to promote wellbeing and health. 

There is plenty of evidence out there to show that the consumption of animal products, especially in the quantities that we consume them, are making us sick. 

I want to stress that I am NOT against animal consumption and believe that many people are naturally inclined to do better by eating meat. However, eating meat every day is NOT healthy. Look into it. Here is a start


Cooking plant-based food at one of our retreats

Most of us are passionate about our food.
Nobody likes to be told what they ought to be eating or that what they eat is part of our environmental problem. 

I don't like it. You probably don’t like it either. 

But you don't have to be a militant vegan or radically change your diet to make an impact. 

At Edgewalkers we want to support all our fellow adventurers and creative souls in reducing our impact on the planet and helping to regenerate the pristine wilderness and care for the diversity that our amazing natural environments offer us. 

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erika@edgewalkers.com.au

Fremantle - Western Australia 6160

+61 406 758 062
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At Edgewalkers we respectfully acknowledge all First Peoples of the land on which this business thrives. We pay our respect to traditional elders from the past, present, and future; we celebrate their culture, heritage, and identity and we aspire to promote and instill a sense of custodianship and responsibility for ‘country’ in all our activities and dealings.

Edgewalkers is a vegetarian company - one of the ways we are aspiring to reduce our carbon footprint.

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